Over the Bernina: a Little Red Train and a Vanishing Glacier

A rest-day ride on the UNESCO-listed Bernina Express leads to Morteratsch Glacier, where year markers since 1878 trace two and a half kilometres of retreat, and to Alp Gruem’s donkeys, stone barns, and Segantini’s Alpine light.
An Hour Walk to Reach Something That Used to Be at the Station

Off the Bernina train and up the valley to the Morteratsch glacier, which has been walking backwards for a hundred and seventy years. Bare moraine, flowers moving in behind it, and two mules on the way home.
