Rome in a Day: Marble Giants on Borrowed Sleep

One jet-lagged day in Rome, seen through an illustrator’s eyes: the Colosseum before nine, sketch notes at the Vittoriano, pop surrealism at the Dorothy Circus Gallery, and pricing lessons from the Piazza Navona street artists.

Well, I made it. Brisbane to Bangkok, one strange jet-lagged night at an airport resort (a swim, a plate of noodles, four hours of something resembling sleep), then the long haul into Rome with my luggage stashed at Termini station and exactly one day to spend. One day. In Rome. What would you even pick?

I travel with a printed itinerary like the child of two engineers that I am, and Rome’s page was a beast: the Colosseum, the artists’ market at Piazza Navona, Via Margutta with its palazzos full of galleries, and the Dorothy Circus Gallery, which shows the kind of illustration-meets-contemporary work that speaks my language. Ambitious? Extremely. Jet lag had opinions.

I picked the walk. If you have ever worked in animation you never really stop being an inbetweener, and Rome is the ultimate keyframe city… every corner is a finished pose and your legs do the frames in between. I went early, before the heat, and I am so glad I did.

Marble river god and fountain at the base of the Vittoriano monument, Rome
The Vittoriano before the crowds. That reclining river god is the size of a bus, and he still looks relaxed about it.

The Vittoriano stopped me in my tracks. Not because it is subtle (it is absolutely not subtle), but because of the fountain figures at the base. Someone carved a giant who looks more comfortable than I have felt in thirty hours of economy seats. I stood there with pigeons landing on his head, doing quick pencil notes on proportion. You cannot buy an anatomy lesson like that.

The route that actually happened: the Colosseum first, before nine, then a beeline across the river district to Via dei Pettinari and the Dorothy Circus Gallery, because if you draw whimsical ink creatures for a living you do not skip the gallery that hangs pop surrealism in a Renaissance street. Then Piazza Navona for the market research, and the Pantheon on the way past, exactly as the plan said: a quick look. Except nobody quick-looks the Pantheon. I got stuck at the columns.

Two thousand year old granite, and I spent my Pantheon minutes filming the cracks in the column bases. The big picture is for postcards. The damage is where the drawing lives. Open full size

The working part of the list had three questions for the Piazza Navona artists’ market: what sells, what stops people, and how the artists present themselves. The street painters and caricature artists there work fast and loose and completely without fear, and watching how they hook a passing buyer taught me more about pricing than any workshop ever has. I took notes like a spy. A tired, sweaty spy with a sketch pad, business cards in one pocket just in case.

Tomorrow, Florence. The feet are filing a formal complaint but the eyes are winning the vote.

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Eurasian eagle-owl with orange eyes and brown streaked feathers perched on a rail in front of a grey stone wall

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