Out early, before the shutters went up. The first thing I met was this bloke, flat out under a cafe chair with his lead still on, chin down on the pavement, giving me the full and what exactly do you want. Look at the folds on him. If you ever wondered why animators learn to draw dogs before they learn to draw people, it is because a dog puts every single thing it is feeling on the outside.

Twenty metres along, a black cat under a rack of postcards. Lavender rows, ochre villages, cypress trees, the whole of Provence turning slowly above her head. And the only properly Provencal thing in the frame is the cat, who has worked out where the shade is and taken it.

Round the next corner, outside a bookshop, this one. Beaded collar, front paws crossed, asleep across the doorway with the 2027 calendars going round beside him and a Little Prince bag hanging in the window. Toi, tu as des etoiles comme personne n’en a. Say what you like about the French, they know exactly where a dog belongs.

The other thing awake at that hour was the brocante. Gates open, not a soul in it, and eleven seconds of walking past a life size Mario, a black metal stag, a saxophone in with the pot plants, a wall of white birdcages and a rack of glass bottles going gold in the low sun. Nowhere I have been sells its leftovers this well.
Then indoors out of the heat, and this is what came of it. Biro, because a biro was what was in the bag. The dogs came out of the morning. The figure did not, she simply turned up on the page holding one of them, which happens more often than I like to admit. I am not after a likeness with these. I am after the weight. Where the dog is pushing into the ground, where the hand is taking some of it, and which line you can leave out and still feel the lot.

And then a squirrel, which absolutely was not on this street. That one came out of the back of my head, or out of the photo library, and honestly I could not tell you which. It is the best line I have put down all week, and of course it is the one I did not plan. Six hours of careful looking, and the good one falls out sideways while you are not paying attention.

Three pages out of it, which for a day that began with a dog under a chair is a fair return. The bus timetable over to Coustellet is on my phone now. Gordes has not got away with it yet.



